Saying Goodbye

Saying goodbye to all of my new friends was one of the hardest things I had to do, as I am pretty sure I won’t see many of them again. I am not trying to be pessimistic, just realistic. I think I’ve been holding off on writing this – my last “Norway Adventure 2014” blog post – for this reason.

During my last week at ISS, I studied for my final… but I also had a fantastic time hanging out with my classmates, both talking about class topics and playing some cutthroat in pool. I taught people how to play cutthroat and had a blast playing and seeing some awful shots, the cue ball flying off the table, whiffs, etc. I learned so much more about other countries, such as Ethiopia, Kenya, Ghana, Kazakhstan, and Tajikistan, than I ever have before. Just writing this brings up my classmates’ faces. I promise I’m not crying (thank goodness there are no cameras).

I also was given presents by some of my friends. Note to self and to others doing a Summer School (there are others besides the one in Oslo): Bring presents from your home country to give to others! When giving me the presents, I was thanked for my kindheartedness and all the support I’d given to providing more structure for the course. I feel honored to have been given so many awesome things that I will treasure.

Our final was on Wednesday, so on Wednesday evening we had our class party which Johanna, the course secretary, and I planned out with some advice from Chris. We decided to hold in in Sognsvann (for those who haven’t read my other blog posts, it’s a lake in Nordmarka, the woods to the north of Oslo), using the disposable barbeques you can buy in any convenience store or grocery store. We had sausages, potato salad, chips, carrots, beer, wine, and some delicious wings and fried rice that a classmate brought with her. People went swimming, played volleyball, and had a great time, including our professor!

After cleaning up in Sognsvann, most of us headed over to Chateau Neuf to continue the party, dancing the night away. I met up with my Norwegian friend, Håkon. I met Håkon three weeks prior at Chateau Neuf. I had gone there to work with my group mates on our class project and Håkon joined our conversation once we finished working. It was great getting to see him one more time, though I am sure that we talked too much about class stuff as it was a bunch of classmates hanging out.

We dragged our way to our shortened review class on Thursday after only getting a few hours of sleep. I had asked the professor if we could have a discussion instead of a review as the syllabus suggested, so I created a few discussion questions as I made the suggestion with such short notice. The questions I made were as follows:

  • We have talked about climate change and our need for sustainable development. Part of that, from the industrialized nations’ viewpoint, has been for developing nations to utilize renewables over fossil fuels. Do you think this is feasible? If you are in favor of it, how would you implement it?
  • Additionally, developing nations sometimes (usually?) feel that industrialized nations should make changes to their lifestyles to reduce their footprints to allow developing nations to increase theirs’. Do you think it is feasible? How could industrialized nations create this change?

I think the discussion turned out really well as we were able to dig deeper into our cultural differences instead of sitting and listening to a lecturer.

Thursday afternoon was spent playing more cutthroat and going shopping with friends for last minute presents to bring home – instead of packing. Eating quickly upon returning, it was time for the closing ceremony and dancing the night away. The party got started pretty quickly and fairly early – right around 8:30 PM. And boy did we dance, in spite of the heat. Moves were being thrown right and left. It was quite the way to say goodbye to each other. One of my good friends left at 3 AM but didn’t want to fall asleep and not wake up in time, so we stayed up dancing until then, though I did duck out of the after-party to pack up quickly. After some sad goodbyes and struggles packing the luggage into the taxi – as four people were leaving at the same time – I took a little four-hour snooze.

After buying a little more Norwegian chocolate, it was time to leave Blindern and depart Norway to come back to the U.S. I obviously made it home safely as I am writing this from Minneapolis. While my heart is glad to be home, I’m still missing all of my great new friends!

As an ending note – I saw a little piece of America while in Oslo, a five-minute walk from our dormitory. Enjoy the pictures! I don’t feel like the need any further explanation…

'Merica (Murica) Bus 'Merica (Murica) Bus 'Merica (Murica) Bus 'Merica (Murica) Bus

Class Catch Up: End of Class

So the end has come and gone and I haven’t finished talking about the last few classes. Here we go with the final class catch up!

On Friday, we heard from the fifth and final group presentation, discussing sustainable consumption by looking at consumption patterns between two countries and the energy and environmental impacts that the consumption creates. They chose to compare Norway and Pakistan, by showing the energy sources that are used currently and what Pakistan has planned for the future. While Pakistan is looking to increase its coal consumption, it is also working on improving its wind and solar infrastructure. Once that is more built up and developed, they will take coal plants offline. However, Jevons paradox may come into play. This paradox states that as technology progresses, the increase in efficiency with which a resource is used tends to increase the rate of consumption of that resource. Therefore having more electricity will probably increase consumption, but having durable goods and more sustainable production will help to lessen this impact. I don’t know where Pakistan is receiving the funds to upgrade its renewable infrastructure, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the U.S. is supporting this initiative so that Pakistan doesn’t have to rely on Iranian oil.

One of my classmates then presented on Green Economy. The goal of green economy is to have high human development with low ecological impact, incorporating social equity. However, our current economic practices are focused predominately on human development without an eye on our ecological footprint. Our investments are done for money, while in a green economy investments would be driven to reduce carbon emissions and protecting our environment. This is a new economic paradigm that can drive growth of income and jobs, without creating environmental risk, whereas our current paradigm is creating poverty, climate change, and food stress. But how do we create this transition? The UN Environmental Program states that we can create this shift if we spend 2% of the global GDP on ten programs with include: manufacturing, renewable energy, waste, cities, transportation, and more. But how do we get countries to agree to redirect 2% of their GDP? Many countries don’t have that possibility and countries like the U.S. should probably contribute more. Politically, though, that’s nearly impossible.

Another classmate from Mexico who is a landscape architect studying in the Netherland talked about using value mapping in ecosystem services. There is a lot of research on planning and decision-making, but not on using this tool for landscape architects. The style of mapping that she used is different than the spider value map I discussed in my last class blog. The location she used in her example comes from Sermange, France, where the central part of the town has been important for water. While I didn’t fully understand the kind of map she used, this tool is very helpful, I think, for landscape architects to make sure they are thinking holistically.

Chris then presented on how life has changed and continues to change. One of these examples was going back to alternative money, such as complementary currencies. In Ithaca, New York, some people (at least used to) exchange time with each other for services instead of using money. Another was Japanese garden art which thinks about the natural world and how to just enhance the natural beauty. He discussed Sigmund Kvaløy’s (a Norwegian eco-philosopher) thoughts on complication vs. complexity: nature is complex, but we don’t need to make our systems complicated to fit into this complexity. One of Sigmund Kvaløy’s greatest comparisons was between Life Necessities Society vs. Industrial Growth Society. In LNS, there is trust and belonging, and countries would help each other succeed in new kinds of technology if it’s useful. With IGS, there is overdevelopment – where energy intensity is down, but due to increased house sizes and the number of houses, the energy use is actually increasing. After GNP reaches a certain point, a nation will start experiencing “debenefits” such as pollution, health issues, overconsumption, overworking, etc. I definitely feel this is the case in the U.S. But how do we reverse this trend in a way that society would agree?

On Monday, we heard from Sandy Halliday who has a degree in philosophy and in engineering, working for GAIA Architects as a researcher. She titled her lecture “A Short History of Good Ideas,” covering the ideas that she felt are important to keep in mind when creating a more sustainable world. Here is her list of twelve ideas:

  1. Infinite growth on a finite planet is an impossibility
  2. There is only one earth
  3. War against nature is inevitably a war against ourselves
  4. Everything must go somewhere (aka, keep in mind our waste!)
  5. There are limits to growth… but no limits to development
  6. If we suspect a problem, we should talk it up, not down
  7. You don’t put solar panels on a HGV
  8. You can give a lifetime guarantee for every piece of tech you don’t install
  9. Any issue should be handled in a way that’s as decentralized as possible in a way that is still effective
  10. Socially useful production that delivers on needs
  11. Growth economics are unsustainable
  12. Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross National Production

On our final day of class before the exam, Chris went through a few more sustainability ideas and problems to be aware of. The most important issues is that sustainability is often an afterthought in projects, and often, people only focus on technology as the solution, when it isn’t the full package. The other is that people don’t know what they don’t know. The project creators might not realize that bringing sustainability into the conversation in the first place will make things better than if it’s added on at the end. Sustainability can be seen as participation, meaningful work, healthy places, and as reducing inequity. He also covered his work on the Punakha Hospital in Bhutan and how he incorporated state of the art design, sustainable building design, and traditional elements all into the same plans.

The last guest speaker was Saleem Drera, who is from the U.S. but is working in Norway with Scandinavian Advanced Technology on using thorium over uranium for nuclear power. He covered some of the largest nuclear disasters that we have heard of to then explain how thorium is different. It is not fissile on its own and its waste is not radioactive for as long as uranium waste. I think it would be interesting to see where research goes on this nuclear technology, though I still don’t think it is the best energy source when compared to solar or wind.

That fully wraps up the class! We had our final on Wednesday, a little over a week ago. I still can’t believe it’s done and that I may not see some of my classmates again… I have one more blog post to post about my adventures and then it’s all over. I think that’s why it has taken me so long to get this out. Thanks for bearing with me!

 

 

Breaking Out of the ISS Bubble: Adventure in Trondheim

I was fortunate to be invited to my friend Ane’s house and lucky that I had this weekend free to go and visit! Ane studied at the University of Minnesota in the spring of 2009. Over winter break of my freshman year, I received word from Housing and Residential Life that Ane would be my new roommate after my roommate from fall semester transferred to the University of South Dakota. However, before arriving to campus, Ane was switched to a different dormitory. All the same, Ane came over to visit my residence hall and we met up in Chicago over spring break that year. When I learned that I would be coming to Oslo this summer, I got in touch with Ane to see if she knew of any good places to visit. At the beginning of July, she messaged me to see if I would be interested in coming to visit her. After seeing that ticket prices weren’t too expensive, I decided to go to Trondheim, and I have to say it was well worth it! I am very glad I got to experience Norwegian life, instead of just life as part of ISS. Here are my stories from the weekend.

Typically when I buy tickets to travel places, I do round trip tickets on one mode of transportation. Matt convinced me to take the train one way and fly the other way. I took the train up on Friday evening and flew back on Sunday afternoon. The train, run by NSB, while crowded, was not packed in Komfort (Comfort) class. I shared the car with about seven other people who all got off before Trondheim. This car, unlike others, had wi-fi, free coffee and tea, and best of all, air conditioning, which was much needed that day as it was very hot. I fell asleep about 30 minutes in and took a two-hour nap. When I woke up, it was a bit too cold in the car. However, I would highly recommend traveling in this class of car as it is not too much more expensive, the seats are comfortable, and it has many nice amenities. I was glad I had the nap as the train ended up having to travel more slowly than expected due to the extreme heat and the possibility of buckling the tracks. One interesting note about the train was the use of the phrase “Uff-da” – a little reminder of Minnesota – on the barf bags.

Sunset from the Train Komfort Class Free Tea and Coffee Uff, da!

Ane picked me up from the train station and was waiting for me on the platform to pick me up. The train was supposed to arrive at 10:40 PM but didn’t make it to Trondheim until 12:20 AM on Saturday; I was surprised and appreciative that her mom stayed up to greet me upon my arrival at their house in Hundhamaren, which is just outside Trondheim. After reassuring them I wasn’t hungry, Ane and I agreed on a time to get up and went to bed.

The view out the room I slept in was amazing, with views overlooking Trondheimsfjorden (Trondheim’s Fjord). It was great getting to wake up and wander out onto a balcony to see the view. I had delicious homemade focaccia bread and crackers all made by Ane, with cheese, butter, and homemade jam for breakfast in the morning. This was my first surprise of many: the cheese slicers are really interesting and shaped like a spatula – you pull the tool over the cheese and you get perfect slices. After the usual boring Studenterhjem food, I found the spread of food amazingly delicious. We drove into Trondheim, parked, and wandered over to Bakklandet, a neighborhood of old timber buildings, originally the homes of the working class. Now it is the location of boutiques, cafes, and art galleries. After wandering through there, we headed up to the Kristiansten fortress. Built in 1681, it helped repel invading Swedish forces when they tried attacking in 1718. The fortress, like Akershus in Oslo, was occupied by German forces in World War II and was also used as a place of execution for members of the Norwegian Resistance.

View of Trondheimsfjord from balcony Bakklandet neighborhood View of University from Fortress View of Nidaros from FortressFortress  View of Fortress from below

As we headed back down the hill on our way to Nidaros Cathedral, I got to see the bicycle lift in progress. The hill is 130 meters high and is virtually impossible to bike up. The lift works by letting the cyclist put their foot on a metal plate that allows them to then roll up the hill with their bicycle. I think it’s pretty cool and would be interesting in a place like Ithaca, New York or San Francisco, California to help encourage biking. On another biking note, they have a lot of bike paths and Ane said that there are more than there were a few years ago. Along with the bike paths, they have increased the tolls from the surrounding towns into Trondheim. However, I’m not sure how fair the toll increases are as taking the bus is expensive and biking may be challenging in wintertime.

Bike Lift Bike Lift

We arrived at Nidaros and bought a combined ticket to explore the Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace Museum, and to see the Royal Regalia. As it was the opening of St. Olav’s Festival in Trondheim, we got to Nidaros just in time to see it before it closed for evening events. Nidaros is the largest, most decorative, and oldest cathedral in Northern Europe. Work on the cathedral began around 1070 in memory of St. Olav, and was completed in 1300. However, it has been damaged by fire in 1327 and 1531 and some parts were not rebuilt until the 1900s. You can see the different styles of architecture from section to section. It has two organs, one from Wagner, built in 1738-40 and restored in 1993-94. There is stained glass throughout the cathedral including a rose window and it is, like most other cathedrals, quite incredible. It’s also full of history – besides holding the remains of St. Olav, there are two flags from World War II, one taken by the king of Norway during his exile and brought back at the end of the war and the other from the British ship that helped free Trondheim. Nidaros was used for Norwegian coronation ceremonies and is now used for benediction ceremonies (coronations were written out of the Constitution), the last one being in 1991. Photography was not allowed inside the cathedral so you’ll just have to enjoy these pictures from outside and go see the inside yourself. 🙂

Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral Nidaros Cathedral

We then went into the Archbishop’s Palace Museum, which provided us with more history of the Cathedral. When the museum was being built, they did an excavation of the area and incorporated the excavated artifacts into the museum, representing about one thousand years of history. One of my most favorite stops was to see the royal regalia. Again, no pictures were allowed, so you’ll have to take my word for how splendid the crown jewels are (or go yourself!). In the square formed by the walls of the Archbishop’s Palace, St. Olav’s Festival had its main stage and medieval market. I think it is a cool use of the old square.

From there, we headed to lunch, back in Bakklandet. Being very hungry, I was super indecisive about where to go. We ended up at Kalas & Canasta. Unlike the numerous options at most U.S. restaurants, the menu only had about six options. We both chose the roast beef sandwich. While good, there was a bit too much sauce, making the open-faced sandwich quite messy. From there we wandered back through town, visiting the local library, which used to be a church and then the city hall. When it was being redeveloped as a library, human remains were rediscovered. The front part of the library is now a museum with more history of the area (skeleton picture). We stopped at two stores so I could buy presents for Matt, my parents, and my sister, helped by ideas I got from my time being more “Norwegian” in Trondheim and ideas from Ane. We left town to go to the local university’s botanical garden (museum grounds are the second picture). It has (what I think is) a large collection of rhododendrons, which have special meaning for my dad’s family as my grandfather bred them for many years. Other than that, though, it isn’t as beautiful as the gardens at Ane’s family’s house (third picture below).

Inside the Library At the Museum and Botanical Garden grounds Garden at Ane's House

We headed back to her house for a few hours before going out for a late dinner at Egon in Tyholttårnet (Tyholt Tower). This tower is a a 124 meter high telecommunications and radio tower completed in 1985 and holds a rotating restaurant at 74 meters (243 ft). Egon is a Norwegian chain restaurant that is a lot like TGI Fridays or Ruby Tuesdays. We both had ribeye steaks with roasted potatoes, lettuce, and seasonal vegetables. I learned from Ane that it’s actually not appropriate to ask for a doggy bag in Norway unless you have pizza or something, so I made sure to eat all my food, while also enjoying the views of Tronheim and the surrounding area.

Tower with the rotating restaurant Trondheim Trondheim View toward Ane's house

Ane and I spent the night sitting around, first outside looking over the ocean, then inside when it was too cold, discussing Norwegian life, dating (or lack thereof) in rural Norway, her time in Minnesota, and differences in college education between the U.S. and Norway. It was interesting to hear how grades in Norway are based on one or two tests and a few papers, but hardly ever include participation as part of the grade. In Minnesota, while taking low-level college classes, she was required to participate and there were pop-quizzes, incorporating more components into the final grade. However, she found it strange that she needed to remember detailed facts, such as the date something was founded, as that was more like Norwegian high school. In Norway, college classes are used to teach students how to learn, as oftentimes people won’t learn all they need in college and learn more about a job while on the job. This way of thinking can provide for more innovation as it exercises the human brain (as opposed to fact memorization).

During our hangout session, I tried some Aquavit Linie, a strong (40%) potato-based liquor from Scandinavia, flavored with caraway and star anise. It’s called Linie because it is stored on a ship and crosses the equator twice; it is said that the four-month sea journey, with changes in heat and humidity, gives it its smooth finish. Compared to other hard alcohols, I would agree with that assessment, though it is quite strong. This liquor is usually only had over the holidays, but I was lucky enough that Ane gave me the opportunity to try a taste.

I also had a chance to try cloudberries, which I had never heard of before. According to Ane, when you find a strawberry patch or a blueberry patch, you tell your friends where to find them. However, if you find a cloudberry patch, your friends do not expect you to tell them where you found them. Ane’s mother received a jar of cloudberry jam from a friend when I was there and I got to try the jam plain and over ice cream. I think part of the reason why they are so tasty is because they are a luxury item – hard to find and expensive to buy. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubus_chamaemorus#mediaviewer/File:Homemade_cloudberry_jam.jpg)

We slept in until 10 AM but started off our day with a hearty breakfast of smoked salmon, another kind of salmon that would typically be eaten with dinner, smoked reindeer heart, more of the focaccia bread and crackers, cheese, and a fruit smoothie. Due to the wonderful weather, we ate outside in the garden.

Breakfast Spread! Ane at breakfast

After our breakfast, we headed into Trondheim to visit the Royal Residence, Stiftsgården. This was quite smaller than the Royal Palace in Oslo in terms both size and splendor, though it is much nicer than the average wealthy person’s house. There are a few noticeable cracks in the walls and ceiling due to its age. It was originally built for a wealthy widow, Cecilie Christine Schøller, in the 1770s, although it is thought that she never lived in the building. It has been used as a place to host the Norwegian Royal Family since the late 1700s, housed the regional governor, and has only exclusively housed the Royal Family since the early 1900s. It was predominately used to host the Norwegian King before and after the coronation ceremony (now, the benediction ceremony). The Royal Family visits about once a year now, while they visited less frequently before the 1900s when the King of Norway was also the King of Sweden. One of the rooms is incredibly pink and furnished in a Parisian way, designed for Queen Maud who had originally been a British princess and missed home. I feel very lucky that I was able to visit two of the five major royal residences open for summer tours during my time in Norway.

Royal Residence Royal Residence

We then visited the Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseet in Trondheim, which is a Museum of Decorative Arts and Design. This was different than the Kunstindustrimuseet in Oslo, hosting various specific exhibits rather than general exhibits on Norwegian design. The major exhibit was called “Vanity Fair,” showcasing the fashion design work by Ove Harder Finseth. There was even a collection of wedding dresses. The dresses were gorgeous and it was interesting getting to see these. It rivaled seeing some of the royal outfits at the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design in Oslo.

Vanity Fair - Wedding Dress Vanity Fair

We only had about three more hours before my flight so we headed back toward the house, stopping off at a beach on our way. While the beach is part of the Trondheimsfjord, it is connected to the Norwegian Sea, which is connected to the Atlantic Ocean. My feet have now been on the other side of the Atlantic! It was a gorgeous day and there were lots of people out at the beach; if we had more time, I definitely would have gone for a swim in spite of the jellyfish. Once back at the house, we had fish soup (which I surprisingly liked) and more ice cream with cloudberries and strawberries for dessert. While eating, I got to look through a book on national outfits from across Norway. Called bunads, these outfits vary from region to region and are a great part of the national heritage in Norway. These are worn for National Day and sometimes to Norwegian weddings. A bride can even wear her bunad with a bridal crown for her wedding. I like the sense of community and nationalism that these costumes create. (more on bunads: http://mylittlenorway.com/2009/05/bunad-norwegian-traditional-costumes/. Ane’s bunad is like the one in the dancing photo or here: http://mylittlenorway.com/wp-content/gallery/northern_norway_bunad/nordland-blue.jpg).

Beach!

After lunch, I grabbed my stuff and we headed off to the airport, first stopping in Hell. Yes, Hell. Ane’s mother told me a story about a man who was born in Hell, immigrated to America, and caused quite a stir when his obituary read that he was born in Hell. In Norwegian, though, hell means successful or lucky. Their word for the English “hell” is actually helvete. The train station is especially interesting as the place where goods are stored and exported is called Hell: Gods Expedition in Norwegian – which in English has a completely different meaning.

Hell Hell Gods-Expedition

We arrived at the airport half-an-hour before takeoff, which I guess is more than enough time in Norway for domestic travel. Ane helped me automatically check in, which gave me my boarding pass and baggage tag. I didn’t have to go up to a counter or anything; I put the tag on my bag myself and just dropped it off. After saying goodbye to Ane and my wonderful weekend in Trondheim, I went to the security line. They only checked my ticket, not my ID, which I found surprising. I didn’t even have to take off my shoes! The whole check in and security process took under ten minutes. What was even more impressive to me was the fact that they had a machine of people to press a button to show whether they were very happy, happy, unhappy, or very unhappy with the security check process. I bet TSA would not like the response they get from people going through U.S. security checks, although the U.S. security process makes me feel more secure than what I went through in Norway.

Taking off from the airport

Overall, I had a wonderful trip to Trondheim and am grateful that I got to break out of the ISS bubble and experience Norwegian life. A huge thanks to Ane and her family for hosting me!

Outdoor Adventures in Norway

As part of the International Summer School, we get to pick a weekend excursion from an option of about five. I chose to do the Jotunheimen Hiking trip with a reindeer safari. For me, this trip took place last weekend, July 19th and 20th and we could not have asked for better weather! Usually the weather in Jotunheimen is variable throughout the day with sunshine one minute and snow the next, even in July. It was fairly hot out, which is better than pouring rain like it did during the hiking trip that went the first weekend of July.

We left nice and early on Saturday morning at 7:30 AM, sandwiches packed and ready for our first adventure. The first stop was the Valdres Folk Museum in a town called Fagernes, which literally translates and Beautiful Peninsula (according to one of our group leaders). This place is like Sturbridge Village – a reference my family and friends in Connecticut/Massachusetts would get. It’s an outdoor museum that shows what Norwegian life has been like over the last several centuries. The tour guide we had was an awful, bossy Dutch woman. It was honestly the least favorite part of my trip. The day was gorgeous and lunch on the shoreline was nice. However, this was one part of the trip I could have done without.

Building from the early 1300s Looking out from the peninsula in Fagernes Buildings up on the hillside

From there we headed out of civilization and on to our reindeer safari in Statsallmenning. Two reindeer herders met us to take us on our walking safari. As it was very hot (for being up in the mountains), the reindeer were up on the snowpack to avoid the flies. The group that went  was able to see the reindeer closer up due to the poor weather and lack of flies. While we couldn’t get close, it was still interesting to see reindeer in their natural habitat. Additionally, I’ve never done a cross-country hike like that before, and it was great to see more of the landscapes that Norway has to offer.

Poles to Find the Road in Winter Landscape Can you see the reindeer? Reindeer! Individual Reindeer on Snow that looks like America

Our bus took us to Gjendesheim to catch the boat Gjendine to get to the mountain cabin that would be our base for the hike on Sunday. After settling in with my friends Victoria, Ira, and Clare, we headed to the dining hall for dinner. While not fantastic (incredibly salty; my dad would have found it inedible), it was still better in taste and quality than what we’re usually served at Blindern. We had salty bread, butter, cabbage soup, roast beef, potatoes, broccoli, and gravy, with a scrumptious pound cake with whipped cream for dessert.

A group of us played some card games after dinner, a girl and a boy playing accordion, singing, and playing recorder interrupted our games for a short concert. While they spoke to us in Norwegian, I’m fairly certain that they are the children of those who run this mountain cabin. After another round of cards, I left before most of the crowd to get enough sleep for the next day. I’m glad I did as a fly kept on landing on me, waking me up around 5 AM.

Breakfast was definitely salty again – the porridge was not great, but I ate it anyway to make sure I wouldn’t get too hungry during the hike. We also had bread, meat, cheese and other sandwich making items to pack for our hike. After packing back up again, leaving non-necessities on the boat to go back to Gjendesheim, we set off from Memurubu to meet up with our stuff. The hike took me about 9 hours including stops. I was wearing a friend’s pair of boots with ankle support so I went slowly as I was getting gigantic blisters and I’d also fallen down and banged up my knees. Our total climb was 700m (2,310 ft) and our highest altitude was 1,743m (about 5,750 ft). As we were out in the sun and higher up in the atmosphere, I made sure to apply copious amounts of sunscreen multiple times. Parts of the climb were harrowing; there was one time when we had to climb up a steep rock wall and to our left was a glacial lake about 100 m down and on the right, the fjord about 500m down. I’ve included some pictures from the hike below.

 

Glacier in a Mountain Ring Fjord behind me Looking down to the Fjord More Fjord

Picturesque Landscape Ridge Hiking About to hike the ridge Made it!Rocky Landscape Nearing the DescentLooking Back at the Path on Cliff Final View

When we arrived, we had a yummy dinner waiting for us of bread and butter, pork tenderloin, potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, and a Norwegian pudding dessert. After all the hiking we did, it was greatly appreciated. We made our tired way to the bus and back to Oslo to start a new week.

The weather here this week has been hot and humid. Today, it is going to be 30 C (86 F) and 66% humidity. Yesterday, it got up over 90 F. Do to all this high heat, I decided to use a pair of sport shorts and a sports bra to go swimming at Sognsvann, an entrance to Nordmarka, the wooded hiking and ski paths in the northern part of Oslo. It was a nice respite from the heat. Thankfully, it’s supposed to cool down in time for our final next week.

Class Catch Up Take 2

I have been absolutely terrible at keeping things up-to-date, and I have to keep playing catch up. Thank you for bearing with me! I’m down to nine days left here in Norway, so it may be even worse as my final is coming up in a week from today.

We will start our journey with Monday of last week, July 14th. On that day, Dr. Aage Stangeland with the Research Council of Norway visited us to talk about Carbon Capture and Sequestration (CCS). While I’ve heard about CCS, I didn’t have an opinion one way or the other on the technology. CCS works by capturing CO2 from power plants, which requires heat to separate it from other gasses. The CO2 then needs to be transported and injected 800 meters below ground, where it’ll be under so much pressure that it turns into a liquid. Here, it is stored in soft rock with hard rock above. It requires a specific formation that is not near faults, has soft rock to store the CO2 with the protective layer of hard rock with no fissures. Aage then showed us how the Bellona Foundation, a NGO, work to promote CCS around the world and to inform citizens that CCS is actually not harmful and create a dialogue between politicians, industry, and citizens. To be honest, I am not sure I am a fan of CCS. I believe that it is safe, and it is useful – but it is not something we should rely on. New power plants should probably consider or be required to use CCS to help eliminate some CO2 from the atmosphere. However, we need new sources of energy that are not CO2 intensive; we should not be relying on CCS technology to solve our carbon emission problem. I feel that promoting CCS may make us feel that we are doing enough toward helping our climate, when that is not the case.

On Tuesday, we learned more about using value maps for sustainability. There are three components to the value map – Ecology, Society, and Economy. Each part has several sub-parameters. Ecology parameters are mostly similar across all contexts, while the society and economy parameters can vary from place to place. While this map is not objective, it makes us think and provides us with ways to measure what is happening in our own localities. It can be used to measure a community’s sustainability efforts or a technology’s sustainable potential. Also called a spider value map (and are used in policy analysis sometimes, too), it helps us to think holistically. Below are some examples of value maps for a few projects, just so you can see what these look like.

Value Map Value Map

On Wednesday and Thursday, we had the most wonderful, older Danish gentleman, a professor in Denmark, come and talk to us about energy and environment. Jørgen Nørgård covered a lot of ground in the two days he was with us. The first concept he covered was the crucial role of energy savings versus supply. Our earth is a closed system except for energy – the sun helps to power us, whether it was sun millions of years ago, trapped as oil, sun this last year that made food, or sun right now in solar PV. The most sustainable thing to do around energy is to create energy savings by changing behavior, our structure, and the technology we use. Of course, renewable energy technologies, like solar and wind, are also better than fossil fuels, but the most energy savings can come from these behavioral, structure, and technology are most important. He showed us an Energy Chain to show us how we can target electricity. For example, electricity use can be targeted when you change the primary source of energy. You could target the technology of the power plants or the technology behind end-use products.

Energy Flow

The second concept Jørgen covered was the technology options we have in end-use energy savings. He was part of a Danish group that made a more energy efficient refrigerator in the 1970s that did not become more popular until the late 1990s. There are many appliances we use, such as refrigerators, ceiling fans, and cooking equipment that can save quite a bit of energy with simple design changes. One of the best quotes from Jørgen’s trip as that we have used technology to create time-saving devices, such as washing machines, which has now led to the creation of brain-washing machines – aka TVs and other things that are time spending machines. Energy saving measures and policies that help to implement better technologies including taxes, especially on energy use, labeling of energy efficiency, enforcing minimum efficiency standards. However, knowing where in the chain to implement the policies is important to make sure that the proper actors are forced to make changes.

Yet another concept is optimizing the economic chain from resources to satisfaction (the energy welfare component at the ultimate end of the above diagram). Our economic system has us think in terms of overall cost instead of using our resources in the best way. It’s built in such a way that we have a hard time limiting consumption in those countries that are already consuming so much. But if the developing nations want a chance at what the U.S. and Europe have, who are we to deny that to them? The EU and USA would have to reduce consumption by 1/10th for it to be more equitable. He then explained a simple model to help us see environmental impact. Impact, I, is equal to Population (P) x Affluence (A) x Technology (T). If you just target one of these things, you aren’t reducing the volume of the impact by much. Targeted interventions that focus on more than one section are need. In this lecture, one of the most poignant things he said was “Why leave children to a life fighting for resources and deprived of Nature’s wonders? Have fewer children because you love them!” While I feel like this language might be too strong, I certainly see this as an issue. From there, we seemed to diverge into built-in obsolescence in our products and how that contributes to GDP, but not to our conservation of natural resources. I think this is a major issue; I definitely see that clothing and electronics do not necessarily last as long as they used to, and parts aren’t always readily replaceable.

He also discussed historical environmental movements and developments – he was actually an adult for some of them, like the “Limits to Growth” debate. He showed that we are on track with the ‘Collapse’ scenario provided in “Limits to Growth.” His main examples came from Denmark, which had cut down all but 2% of its forests by 1800 and was dependent on fossil energy imports from elsewhere. After discovering oil in the 1980s, Denmark became self sufficient in energy by 1997. First, they reduced demand and used combined heat and power plants to use oil and gas more efficiently. More recently, they have been using wind to cover some of their electricity needs. Denmark has hopes to be totally carbon free by 2050. However, how do they get there?

Jørgen covered scenario creation as a way to show what we want to have happen in the future. He explained that there is a difference between prognoses, which use trends of the past to predict the future, and scenarios that need vision and thoughts of the future, not just using the past to create the future. For example, such a vision was putting the man on the moon or steam flight from America to Europe. While steam flight hasn’t happened, there have been flights across the Atlantic (I took one just over a month ago!) and we have put a man on the moon. There is obviously some value in thinking of what we want to see in the future and then putting that in place, instead of using past trends to “see” the future wants and needs.

We rounded out the week with Natalija Špeh from Slovenia, who talked about sustainable landscape management in the Šalek Valley. This valley has a coal seam that runs through it and has power plants in the area, too, producing 30% of Slovenia’s electricity. There are also a lot of industries located in this valley, as this is the prime location of electricity in the region. However, due to the valley shape, pollution stays trapped, especially during the wintertime as cold air in the valley is trapped by warm air from the mountains. From these facts, she told us about sustainable management, which focuses on the long term, integrated evaluation, and assessing both positive and negative consequences. These can use both quantitative – such as the percent changes in land use, certain sectors that are growing, etc. – and qualitative measures – such as opinions on proposed intervention and the ideas of the affected population. She then showed us an area of the Šalek Valley that is going through a process of redevelopment around a lake that formed from a depression created by the extraction of coal. We drew pictures of the area and our own ideas for what that area should look like, especially as Slovenia is focusing on increasing tourism (“I feel Slovenia” is there slogan). I love the Chain of Lakes in Minneapolis, so I created something like that, but with fewer houses nearby.

Phew, through all of last week! Now onto this week.

On Monday, we learned more about sustainable cities and traditional settlement patterns from our main instructor, Chris Butters. The most traditional is the cluster village. In Norway, these villages were built up on the hillside, sometimes into the hillside, to leave the flatter areas near water bodies for agriculture and for pastureland. In the U.S. the Pueblo cities were mentioned for the fact that the buildings utilized natural ventilation. Traditional European medieval towns were built together on areas that also avoided prime agricultural lands. In the industrial age, zoning, urban sprawl, and planning characterize modern cities. But some shortcomings include no center for some, segregation, and poor quality of certain areas. Modernism especially was designed around some cars but had set places for services instead of using more mixed use. Now, there are certain cities (defined as 5,000-20,000 people) that are trying to become zero emission cities, including a neighborhood of Helsinki (Vikki), and Malmø, Sweden’s Western Harbor. More sustainable building design utilizes integrated ecological planning, taking consideration to bioclimatic design, passive and active solar use, and space for alternative modes of transportation. Oftentimes sustainable cities survive longer with stakeholder participation. This does not mean informing or just consultations with the public. Instead, it needs citizen control and delegated power to the people. He then went through multiple other examples, including district cooling used by Cornell University!

On Tuesday, we continued with our discussion of sustainable development around the quote from Article 21 of the Rio Convention: “For sustainable development to succeed, it must be anchored and implemented, locally.” We focused specifically on this locally component and how sustainable initiatives have to be developed from the bottom up. One example is the Ideas Bank Foundation, which distributes sustainable ideas, information on technology, and program examples globally. We also covered some small towns, such as Albertslund in Copenhagen and Samsø Island off of Denmark and how they created their own goals through community workshops, all at the local level. There are also a few institutional local ideas, such as Barefoot Colleges, which teach those in rural areas how to use and create green technology and buildings. The major component to remember, however, is that all four actors – business/financiers, users/community, technicians/researches, and government/authorities – need to be included when planning the process. Otherwise the sustainability plan will not necessarily move forward or last as long.

On Wednesday, we had various people from the class present on issues that aren’t covered in other parts of the course. I presented on water issues as I feel that is a point that is missing. I talked about how water is used in the production of energy, how drinking water uses energy to transport and clean, and the issues between the water-food-energy nexus (you can learn more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water,_energy_and_food_security_nexus). I had fun presenting on the issues I care deeply about! At the same time, I wish water issues were discussed more in the course, as it is so vital to energy, the environment, and development.

We had our group presentations on Thursday. My group presented on sustainable land use and settlement patterns in San Jose and in Bangalore. We chose these two cities as they are heavily influenced by the IT industry, with each considered to be part of the Silicon Valley in their countries. While San Jose has been getting better, Bangalore has room to expand outward which could, and has, been causing some issues.

Another group presented on emissions trading compared to clean development mechanisms (CDM). Emissions Trading was proposed under Kyoto Protocol in Article 17 while CDM was mentioned in Article 12. Unfortunately, neither became truly global. However, the EU uses an Emissions Trading Scheme (ETS), and it has been reducing emissions, but there has been overallocation of emissions permits. It is not as effective as it could be, so eliminating free allocations would be helpful. CDM allows developed nations to help developing countries with implementing new technologies and greener development. While there are other options, such as legislation and taxes, these two options are more palatable and flexible for growing economies.

The third group presented on building efficiency and architecture, comparing Mexico and Germany because they are quite different. In these places, there are various styles of vernacular buildings that used local materials and took climate into account. New buildings with passive and active designs (meaning the building works with nature to provide ventilation, heating, energy, etc.) that try to use local materials are more expensive. Therefore, there need to be incentives for people to build sustainably and locally, such as subsidies and legislation to promote change.

Our fourth presentation was on renewable energy, focusing on wind power in Kazakhstan and solar power in Bangladesh. Kazakhstan has the potential to produce around 350 GW of electricity form wind a day. This could also help with upgrading the aging infrastructure and also decreasing the CO2 emissions, as Kazakhstan is the 16th largest emitter in the world. In Bangladesh, they have 10,289 MW of installed capacity, but many people don’t have access to electricity. They have been installing solar, with 45 MW now. If only 0.07% of the incident solar is captured, they can fill all of their 15,000 MW needs. Some NGOs and institutions in Bangladesh are working on installing 1 million solar home systems around the country. Electricity allows them to run their businesses and study for school at night. Of course, there are barrier to implementation as these countries are not very wealthy. They have other issues that compete for the money that could go to renewables, such as food security, housing, transportation needs, and schooling.

Our fifth and final group will be going tomorrow. It’s 90 degrees F (32 C) out and getting hotter; with our classroom being on the 4th floor with no AC, it’s becoming unbearable. We’ll see how tomorrow goes!

30 Hours on a Bus

Last week, my class went on a five-day excursion around southwestern Norway (July 8th-12th). We left bright and early from the dormitory on Tuesday morning. For many of us, this was our first time leaving Oslo for other parts of Norway. It was exciting to see more than just Oslo. Our first stop was in Brevik, Norway to visit the Norcem (pronounced NOR-sem) Cement Factory. Producing cement since 1918, Norcem has been a large producer of cement in Norway, currently making 300 tons per hour, 24/7, except for 3 weeks when the plant is cleaned. Cement production has many impacts on the environment. First, it creates different patterns of living than other modes of building development. For example, a mud house has a different energy footprint than a cement one. Second, taking limestone to create calcium oxide (CaO) releases CO. Beyond that, creating cement requires a lot of heat and therefore produces more CO (components to make cement are heated in a kiln at 1450 degrees). Cement production is responsible for 5% of manmade CO emissions. Norcem is working to reduce their CO emissions and hope to reach 0% by 2050. One of the major parts to reach this goal is carbon capture. However, what do you do with the captured CO? One of our presenters feels it should be used to produce algae for biofuels. Another thing Norcem does is use municipal and hazardous waste to produce some of the heat. Heating hazardous waste to the temperatures that Norcem does is one of the safest ways to get rid of hazardous waste.

Looking out from the Cement Factory

After Norcem, we went to Porsgrunn to visit Yara International, which creates fertilizer. They provided us with some sandwiches for lunch, which was excellent after the monotony of the food in Blindern. Their major fertilizer includes ammonium nitrate, which they create using natural gas. They have about 70,000 tons of fertilizer in storage at a time. A LOT of fertilizer. It was interesting to see how much they have and to see the process. These were the first two major factories I have gone to, and it was interesting to see just how extremely large – and complex – these industrial places are.

One of my favorite nights of the trip was the first night. We went all the way from Porsgrunn to Haukeli, staying in a mountain cabin. Here, there was still snow on the mountains; I guess it doesn’t melt completely until the end of July or beginning of August. This makes the streams and the lake incredibly cold as they are still running with snowmelt. After an amazing dinner of salmon in a cream and white wine sauce and boiled potatoes, we played out on the lake. Some went in rowboats (using the wrong paddles) while many of us used kayaks, some for the first time. After the sun started setting, we headed back indoors to cheer on the German team, as they crushed Brazil. The only downside was really the shower – it cost 10 kroner for 4 minutes and I couldn’t figure out how to make it warm, so my shower was almost as cold as the lake.

Kayaking Haukeli

After a delicious breakfast of waffles, clotted cream, and jam, we headed out on our Wednesday expeditions. This involved a long and torturous drive, the first of many, through the narrow roads along the fjords. The roads seemed to be 1.5 lanes wide instead of 2 lanes, except for passing areas every hundred yards or so. The first stop was to the National Petroleum Directorate, which provided us with lunch in their canteen, any food we wanted. Norway, as you may know, gained much of its wealth from oil development, all of it offshore. The NPD was created to develop the oil fields in a way that had less disruption to the environment while also gaining the most for Norway. As part of that, all profits from the oil and gas industry are taxed at a 27% ordinary profit tax and an additional 50% special petroleum tax. The NPD also decides which fields the state run oil companies will develop in order to fund the State Direct Financial Interest, which helps to pay pensions and state projects. The NPD also collects data on the projects in order to try to make things better over time with each new field.

Mountain house with sheep Snow. In July. Standing on Snow

In stark contrast to our last three visits, we went to an Eco Farm in Erga in the late afternoon. The whole place was developed to be sustainable. The house is built into the side of a hill to protect it from the strong winds, with windows along the southern side to capture as much sunlight as possible. It is also created with timber from the area and insulated naturally with straw. The house has a permaculture garden and an area that naturally cleans the water from sewer system (the solid waste is collected beforehand and taken elsewhere). The greenhouse is designed in a way to provide for natural ventilation, stones to keep in warmth, and enough area to allow for sunlight penetration without getting too cold in the winter. The farmer (who now farms as a hobby and has a job with something else) produces carrots, and lets part of the fields lay fallow with clover for 10-15 years. After the tour, he and his wife provided with a lovingly cooked homemade meal of flatbread with butter, vegetable stew, and wild rice.

We spent the night at the Stavanger Bed and Breakfast, which allowed us to explore more of Stavanger. The city, on the West coast of Norway, is quite pretty, though there are certain areas that look a bit run down (more on that in a few paragraphs). Abnet and I, after exploring with some of the other girls in my class, went back to our room and watched the World Cup game between the Netherlands and Argentina. Come morning, we had a delicious breakfast of fried eggs, sausage, bacon, and toast. Interestingly enough, this place had lunchmeat and cheese, just like other places – including the dorm – but I stuck with the breakfast foods.

Overlooking Stavanger Stavanger park

We stayed in Stavanger for the day on Thursday, starting our morning at the University of Stavanger campus listening to Geir Haug. He worked for oil companies, including Statoil and Shell, retiring at the age of 60. Like the NPD, he talked about how fortunate it was that the Norwegian state created a list of Ten Commandments around oil in 1971, before oil development fully took off in Norway. These include national supervision and control of oil reserves, the (then) new industry should consider existing industry and environment, and that oil should be taken to the Norwegian mainland, creating more jobs. The oil has also helped develop more of the area around Stavanger, with many oil companies and services in one place.

However, we received a completely different message from our next stop with Harald Røstvik, an architecture professor in Bergen. The story he told of the two class system created from oil development was quite sad, though obviously not as bad as the system it has created in other countries. Within Stavanger, you can see some areas that are more run down than others, even though this city has quite a bit of Norway’s oil money. The new Stavanger Konserthus symbolizes this. At a cost of 1.2 billion NOK, the energy mix used by the building is controversial because it uses gas, instead of electricity from hydropower, which is cheaper – and cleaner. Norway does provide a good example for how to manage oil, though Harald showed us the ways in which it does not work as it should.

Stavanger Konserthus

We headed along the fjords from Stavanger to Odda, even taking the bus on a ferry from Mortavika to Arsvågen to cross a fjord. The views are spectacular; these are the landscapes that Norway is known for. We arrived in Odda and headed out to a delicious dinner of venison and root vegetables at the Smelt Café. The venison was – I have to admit – the best I’ve ever tasted and cooked to perfection. Some people didn’t like it, so I had more than I anticipated. We worked off our meals on a walk around Odda, exploring the Opo river and the grounds of the old carbide factory. There, we found an old turnstile gate, which no longer serves any purpose. Maybe it’s like the phantom tollbooth (any book lovers out there)?

On the Ferry Waterfall! Looking out into a fjord Turnstile gate

After a warm night’s sleep, as the weather has been unseasonable hot, our first visit was to the zinc factory, located in Odda. This factory produces zinc to then send to other plants. Unfortunately, zinc is often found in rock with heavy metals. This factory severely polluted the fjord, at one point dumping somewhere between 10-20 kg of mercury each day, yes, each day, into the bay during 1969. Clean up efforts began in the late 1970s. They decided to cap the pollution instead of dredge it out, as they were worried it would plume into other areas of the fjord and make it worse. They now take the waste and put it in deep caverns in the solid granite mountains. It was interesting to see the wastewater treatment they have onsite, as I’ve never been to a wastewater treatment facility before.

Our next stop was across the way and a bit further down the fjord in a small town called Tyssedal. The hotel is quite up to date and has beautiful paintings of the troll lore – I’ve included one below. In this picture, the troll is crying as the humans have destroyed his waterfall. Here, we had cod with bacon and more root vegetables. Best of all was the apple crumble cake with vanilla ice cream that we had for dessert, all provided by the hydropower station. Unfortunately, they chose to show us a video in a darkened auditorium of the hydropower museum immediately after lunch, putting half of us to sleep. That did make us more awake for the actual presentation where we learned about the selling of water rights to the waterfalls in Norway. In the early 1900s, many of the rights were sold to Englishmen looking to build industrial facilities in Norway utilizing hydropower. Now, they are mostly owned by Norway, with leases given out for 100 years or something like that to factories, etc., that want to have their own power stations. We were then shown the old power station and the new one, deep inside the mountain. Both are incredible to me. The old power station used 15 turbines, monitored by one man on the floor and run by one man in the control room. Today, there is a huge turbine with a massive generator, with a 220 MW capacity, producing around 900 GWh of electricity a year. It is quite a feat of natural and human ingenuity.

Crying Troll Old Hydroplant Old Control Room Tunnel into Hydropower PlantNew Turbine

We left the fjords for the central part of southern Norway, heading to Geilo for the night. Some of the scenery reminded me of the Finger Lakes region of New York. After a dinner of more fish, we settled into our townhouse style hostel rooms. This hostel is really interesting; it does not have one building with many rooms. Instead, it has townhouse style rooms, cabins, camper hook-ups, and areas for pitching tents. The girls headed into “town” to pick up snacks and played card games upon our return, while the guys found a soccer field.

Looking like the Finger Lakes Looking over the fjord

On our last day, we went to more farms. The first location was the Energigården, where they have demonstrations of bioenergy and how it can be used at a rural community level. The farm is able to self-support 85-90% of its energy needs, both direct (electricity, gas) and indirect (off-setting carbon footprint through preservation of forest on property). The head of the farm spoke to us about using bioenergy in a way that does not compete with food. First, they produce oil seeds to make biofuel; one ton of oil seeds produces 350 kg of oil and 650 kg of protein fodder that can be sold to other farmers. They also use their forest sustainably, only taking about half of what nature naturally produces each year. Twenty-five cubic meters of forest chips is enough to heat one private house (15,000-20,000 kWh) or produce 1,000 liters of bioethanol (enough to drive a car 12,000 km) plus produce 12,000 kWh of heat.

Our final stop before heading to Oslo was an ecovillage in Hurdal. They fed us a dinner of pasta and zucchini with a cream sauce and salad before giving us more information on the ecovillage concept. In this instance, Hurdal is trying to create a bridge between the idealistic vision and the economic reality. Located within an hour drive of Oslo and very near the major airport, this spot appeals to those who are retiring from Oslo or want a change in jobs and want to live in a more sustainable way. The houses are being built with timber and natural insulation – basically as many natural techniques, using material from as nearby as possible. That said, this is also a commercial venture and it shows. When we visited the housing site, one of the new owners came out. Not only had her stairs and kitchen not been finished, she hadn’t been instructed on how to use the solar panels that were on the roof. While this is a fascinating concept, I think there are better ways to come about it.

At last we were on our way home and back to the so-so food of the door and the excitement that comes with living amongst 300 students, instead of 21.

 

Here are google map links to see where we traveled.

Tuesday: https://goo.gl/maps/iVqZp.

Wednesday: https://goo.gl/maps/8AHfn.

Thursday: https://goo.gl/maps/rSFDe.

Friday: https://goo.gl/maps/TqCa3

Saturday: https://goo.gl/maps/AVCV2

Art, History, and Culture

I have learned more about Norwegian history in these last few days than I ever have. Why, you might ask? I spent the weekend (and last Wednesday) visiting the many museums and icons Oslo has to offer. On Wednesday, we were given a guided tour of Akerselva, or Aker River. When Oslo was still Christiania (1624 to 1925), the Aker River divided the population into the rich on the west and the poor on the east. Granted, some of those connotations still exist today; the eastern part is not an area you would necessarily want to walk around on your own. We walked a few miles down the river and visited some of the most interesting parts, including the first paper mill in Oslo. While the guide gave us a lot of interesting information, I don’t know that I was necessarily impressed as the group was too large and we walked at a slower pace than I would have wanted. The scenery is beautiful for being in the middle of a city, so I would recommend walking along the river if you have the chance to come to Oslo; just not with 50 other people.

On Friday, Victoria and I went to the Opera House. While we’ve seen it from afar, neither of us had walked on it, and we decided to check it out. It has wonderful views and the inside is quite pretty. I feel like it’s the Sydney Opera House of Europe. The architectural style is different than any other Opera House in Europe, and, although I’ve never been, I would compare it to the unique design of Sydney’s icon. Like many other theaters and opera houses, the Opera House has a restaurant both on the inside and to the outside. Due to the open doors during the day, there are at least two swallows living inside the building. Nonetheless, the inside is gorgeous, and a must see if you are a fan of architecture.

Resembling a Glacier Decorative Interior

The same day, we went to the Museum of Contemporary Art, Muséet for Samtidskunst, which is not far from Oslo’s Opera House. Although I am not a huge fan of contemporary art (some of it is too out there for me), I enjoyed myself quite a bit. The exhibits were poignantly put together. The first floor was almost entirely dedicated to Aase Texmon Rygh’s work. Born in 1925, she went to school in Norway, Denmark, and was inspired in Paris by European modernism and the simplicity of ancient sculptures. This inspiration can be seen in her work around eternity (möbius strips) and on human movement. Some examples of her work are below. Also on the first floor was an interactive piece where the observer physically walks inside the sculpture. Called Inner Space v. The Target by Per Inge Bjølo, it evoked all the feelings it said it would. These were: heightened feelings of confinement, claustrophobia, and bodily awareness. The metal rattled around you and the light was harsh inside. A picture of that piece is also below.

Blue Bronze by Rygh Sculpture by RyghIMG_0275

The second floor was dedicated to an exhibit called “Take Liberty!” While on the first floor, you could hear this church music playing on a loop. As we came to the stairs, we realized it was a video of Pussy Riot’s “Punk Prayer – Mother of God, Chase Putin Away!” From there, there were pieces on freedom, liberty, and justice, from Denmark, to the U.S., to Thailand, and so on.  As Friday was the 4th of July, I found the documentary titled The March particularly affecting. About the March on Washington in 1963, I felt moved especially as we are celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Civil Rights Act. Also, I found it interesting just how much American history Victoria knew. It made me wish I knew more history for other parts of the world than just Western Europe.

That night, I tried finding a friend/classmate, Pablo, at Fotballfesten, the main place in downtown to watch the World Cup. Literally Soccer (Football) Party, it was unbelievably crowded. Needless to say, without a phone or knowledge of just how busy it would be, I was unable to find him. However, some Bulgarians rooting for Colombia took me under their wing and I hung out with them for the first half before going to the student bar closer to Blindern for the second half.

As this was my last full weekend in Oslo, I chose to visit a bunch of museums. I woke up bright and early on Saturday to get my day going. Although it was not open, my first stop was Stortinget, the Norwegian parliament building. Tours are available during part of the summer, but only from 10-1 on weekdays, which falls right during my class. Even so, I enjoyed seeing the building before going to Akershus Fortress, where I learned that two prisoners there carved the lions that I saw in the front of the building. You can see a picture of one of those lions below.

IMG_0293 Stortinget

My second stop was Oslo Cathedral. Although it is the main church building in Oslo, and has been since 1697, this is not where coronation ceremonies of Norwegian kings took place; that happened in Trondheim. (Coronation ceremonies ended in 1908 when it was eliminated from the Constitution.) Renovated in 2006 and re-opened in 2010, the artwork – both painted, gilded, and stained glass – is lovely. It is different than other cathedrals throughout Europe as it appears to be made out of some sort of brick instead of cut stone. Some pictures are below.

Oslo Cathedral Exterior Oslo Cathedral Tower Oslo Cathedral Royal Box Oslo Cathedral Altar Oslo Cathedral Organ Oslo Cathedral Stained Glass

My third stop on Saturday was to Akershus Fortress, located along the harbor. First build in the 1300s, it has been added onto and partially destroyed over the last 700 years. The grounds to the Fortress are open to the public every day, free of charge, even though it is still being used as a military area. If you want a guided tour of the grounds, it does cost some money, but there are also maps for you to take your own tour. In the 1800s, the fortress was used to house prisoners and was called The Slavery as they would rent out prisoners to the city and use their labor on the fortress grounds as well. Prisoners in The Slavery carved the two lions that I mentioned earlier. The main attraction of the Fortress is, of course, the Castle, which was only 50 NOK for a student ticket. Akershus Castle was built at the same time as the Fortress during the Middle Ages. When Christian IV became king in 1596, he had the castle repaired and expanded in a more Renaissance style. Funds were tight, so stones and bricks were used from older buildings, which you can see in my picture. The Castle is still used today, albeit infrequently. The banquet hall was last used in 2001 for the diplomatic dinner prior to the wedding of Haakon, Crown Prince of Norway, and Mette-Marit Tjessem Høiby, now the Crown Princess. A few other, more detailed descriptions can be seen on my Facebook page.

Akershus Fortress Courtyard Romerike Hall Christian IV Hall Differences in the Brick In Front of the Castle

At Akershus Fortress, a tourist family asked the gift shop desk if they had any maps of the subway system in Oslo. As they didn’t, and I happened to have several, I gave up my guide. After I was done in Akershus Fortress, I decided to go get a new one for myself, which led to some wandering around Downtown Oslo. As the weather was gorgeous, I didn’t mind one bit. Once I got that, I headed to the Nobel Peace Center, where they have exhibits on peace, what peace means, and the Nobel Peace Prize winners. While it was good for a free visit, I feel like I could have had the same experience online. In all, I visited Stortinget, Oslo Cathedral, Akershus, and the Nobel Peace Center on Saturday.

Sunday was just as busy. Loki joined me this time and we started our day at the botanical garden, which is run by the University of Oslo in Tøyen/Sofienberg. After wandering through the gardens and thinking how much I would have enjoyed visiting with my dad, we went to the Zoological Museum, part of the Museum of Natural History (it is split into a Zoological and a Geological building). While small, I always enjoy seeing the dioramas that the museum caretakers create. We then headed over to the National Gallery, which has one of the smallest art collections I have seen in a national art museum probably because Norway is so small. Despite that, they had art from the major eras, ranging from ancient Greece and Rome, to Medieval, Renaissance, impressionists, modern, etc. They have paintings from Picasso, Monet, Manet, and of course, their important Norwegian painters, including an entire room dedicated to Munch. (There is also a museum dedicated to Munch separate from this museum, which may be why they do not have more paintings.) I loved the nationalistic landscapes painted by Thomas Fearnley and Johan Christian Dahl. Loki and I then dashed off to the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design, full of furniture, glassware, china, clothing, and household items from across the centuries. It had some of the royal outfits from queens and princesses in Norway, which were gorgeous to see! On Sundays, the national museums like these two are open for free. As an ISS student, I am able to get into certain museums, including all the ones I went to on Sunday, for free with my ID.  While I enjoyed the museums, I was definitely museum-ed out by the end.

Statue of Christian IV Painting by Thomas Fearnley Painting by Johan Christian Dahl

But my Sunday wasn’t over yet. I purchased a student ticket to visit the Royal Palace. I could not take any pictures while inside, but I can say that it is definitely worth the money (85 NOK student, 95 NOK adults). Finished in 1849, it has been home to the king of Norway-Sweden and to the current Norwegian line. The first kings of Norway began their rule in the 9th century. While there were a few periods of time when this independent nation was in a union with Denmark, the official union began in 1387 as Denmark-Norway-Sweden. From 1524 to 1814, Norway was part of Denmark. Finally, in 1814, Norway gained its freedom from Denmark and created its own Constitution, only to be taken by Sweden in a brief war. At long last, in 1905, Norway and Sweden reached negotiations for Norway’s independence, the first time in many, many centuries. Norway chose, by a populous vote, to remain a monarchy, albeit a constitutional monarchy. After asking Sweden for a king, which the Swedish king refused, the Danish king granted his grandson to the Norwegians. King Haakon VII came to Norway in 1905, giving Norwegians ties to both Denmark and England. There is a whole lot more to this story, including information on the Occupation of Norway by Germans in World War II, but you can read up about that on Wikipedia or something, as this post is already far too long.

Back of the Royal Palace

I still have more museums I want to visit while I’m in Oslo, but I’m glad I knocked out so many, and I know where I might want to go again.

Class Catch Up

For some of you, this blog post may not be as interesting as it will involve what I have learned in class over the last week. For those of you who are interested in energy, environment and sustainable development, I hope you enjoy!

Last Friday, back in June, we learned about international law and how it can be used around climate change from Christina Voigt, who teaches law at the University of Oslo and has negotiated certain climate action goals like REDD with the United Nations. Environmental law, as you may deduce, defines the relationship between humans and the environment through rules, regulation, principles, economic mechanisms, sanctions, and soft law. International environmental law is actually quite large because it covers bilateral and regional treaties and laws on environmental issues. Environmental law is necessary because it regulates a public good, provides for burden sharing, and allows for multiple nations to tackle challenges that might not be solved with one actor. Christina then took us through the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) and what it sets out. Written in 1992 and ratified in 1994, the definition of developing nations may need to change to make it more effective. Every year, a Conference of the Parties (COP) meets to discuss the framework. In Durban, the COP meeting of 2011 came up with a Platform for Enhanced Action (ADP) that the COPs hope to adopt at Paris in 2015, and be ratified by 2020. However, there are still many differences in party ideas. We were left with a question: how can the ideals, written out in the UNFCCC be worked into legal policy to help with climate change issues?

On Monday, our instructor Monica Guillen presented her research on sustainable consumption and wellbeing. But what is sustainable and what is wellbeing? We agreed that wellbeing should include: health, safety, satisfaction, happiness, access to basic needs, and economic sovereignty. But how can you measure this, especially across different cultures as they have different ideas of wellbeing? Monica provided a definition of wellbeing as “a state of being with others, where human needs are met, where one can act meaningfully to pursue one’s goals, and where one enjoys a satisfactory quality of life.” She, along with others, hopes to see Human Scale Development, which focuses on human needs and happiness, take over as an index to replace GDP. GDP only focuses on money, though money is not the only determinant for one’s happiness, and happiness and life-satisfaction are more important than money. Monica showed us her work on measuring wellbeing/happiness and how a community can identify satisfiers that will help them make their lives better and more sustainable.

John Hille presented to us for two days, Tuesday and Wednesday, on energy resources and materials resources, first for the world and then in a distinctly Norwegian context. First, it’s important to understand what the energy is being used for – electrolysis or heating. There are five main types of energy: solar radiation, chemical, atomic, motion, and geothermal. Each type of energy has five constraints, including physical availability, technology, economics, environmental concerns/competing uses, and demand for energy quality. John went through the modes of collection and constraints in utilization for each of the five types of energy. The major way, however, to reduce energy and material use is through increasing efficiency. He has produced multiple papers for Norway on these issues and has found that increasing recycling, reducing waste in production, increasing product lifetime, downsizing products, and developing multifunctional products/durables, we could be using 90% less than we are now.

Before getting into the information on Norway, John gave us some context. He went over the difference between primary energy (source) and end-use (what is used by the consumer), as 20-30% or even more energy is lost between primary to end-use, in addition to other energy conversion factors about tons of oil equivalent (toe), joules, and watt-hours. We learned that Norway is a large primary energy consumer (though less than the U.S. per capita), while higher than the U.S. per capita when it comes to end-use energy. Most of the electricity in Norway comes from hydropower and it’s the original source of energy that led to Norway’s development. In addition, Norway has a high potential for wind energy, but has yet to really exploit it. Despite this, the end-use of energy has been decreasing in Norway, partially because of milder winters. He went into a lot more detail, so if you’re specifically interested in learning the energy context for Norway, I can give you more information!

On Thursday, we got to hear from our main course instructor, Chris Butters. He has worked with environmental architecture, energy, and ecology for 35 years, as a practicing architect, researcher, lecturer, and author of several books. Chris worked in Asia (Bhutan) for 10 years for international organizations as project coordinator and architect for schools and a hospital. He has also worked as the director of various organizations and been a guest lecturer at the Oslo School of Architecture (2007-2008) and at St Johns University in Minnesota (2009). Chris currently works as architect and international consultant in the GAIA network, which specializes in sustainable architecture, as senior adviser at the Ideas Bank Foundation, Oslo, and has a research posting at Warwick University, UK, for low energy housing in tropical climates.

Chris presented on renewable energy sources and constraints on them as a Nordic example. Hydropower, again, is the prime example. While getting the building materials to the site is a challenge, the landscape is barren enough that little maintenance is needed. While John went through the kinds of energy and the types that we use, Chris gave us the technological aspects and current uses. Much of his work has been on solar energy, so he discussed its uses in heating, water heating, and in energy production. Some are interesting cases I’ve never heard of before, such as creating a pond, insulating it, let it heat up in the summer, then use that heat for heating in the winter. As an architect, he talked about natural building materials that are better for human health and the environment, albeit more labor intensive to construct, which is the major barrier to use in developed nations.

On Friday, Mariel Aguilar, who is a political ecologist, presented her research on sustainability and conservation, using REDD as an example. Reducing Emissions from Deforestation and Forest Degradation in Developing Countries (REDD) is a program developed by Norway and several other developed nations in coordination with Indonesia, Brazil, and several other countries with tropical rainforest. In this program, developed nations pay developing nations to not remove a certain amount of rainforest. This is supposed to help developed nations to reduce their carbon footprint while allowing developing nations to develop without removing forest. The hope is to add REDD to the next UN climate change provision as part of some kind of carbon trading scheme. Currently, REDD has a few structural issues; it deals with this forest as if it is private property. However, 60 million indigenous people live on this land without outright owning it, and 80% of the people dependent on forests live on less than $1 a day. How do you make sure that the money from the REDD program goes to the right people? It is a contentious issue that is hard to fully grasp, but Mariel helped us divide into four ideologies, formulate arguments, and answer questions related to our positions. It greatly facilitated our understanding of the issues and just how challenging it is to come up with a program that most can get behind.

We will be going on an excursion around Norway visiting a hydropower plant, several kinds of factories, an eco village, and other environmental organizations. I’ll post one more time before the trip, but may not be able to blog while I am gone.

Life in Blindern Studenterhjem

Backing up to two weeks ago (I can’t believe I’ve already been here for two weeks!)… I moved into my room for the six weeks I will be here. There are two beds (I can feel every spring in mine, though it’s not too bad), one desk and chair, a set of dresser drawers, a closet, and a shelving unit. We’re fairly certain that during the school year, these are individual rooms. Attached to our room is a bathroom with a sink and a shower. The toilets are down the hall.

ISS tries to match us up with people based on our age, classes, and our answers to three questions about sleeping preferences. However, we don’t know who our roommates are until they show up. I was the first one to show up in my room. Luckily, I went to sleep at 7 PM local time that day, so I was more awake when my roommate arrived at 3:30 AM. Her name is Victoria and she is from Ukraine. Originally, she signed up to take International Development, but after the unrest in her country, she chose to switch to Peace Research. We’ve had a few interesting conversations about her life in Ukraine. She has been an absolute pleasure to be rooming with – and I’m not just saying that because she might be reading this. She’s been going to bed when I want to, letting me use my white noise machine, helping me with internet issues, and so on. We go to meals together sometimes, hang out on some of the social program trips, and she’s pushed me to go to more of the ISS offered events. I definitely feel like I lucked out in the roommate situation.

Victoria and Me

Speaking of the meals, here is a run down of the food options. Every morning, there are several kinds of bread for toast, four kinds of dry cereal, and oatmeal if it hasn’t run out. Once a week, there are hardboiled eggs, boiled to perfection. There is also chocolate and nutella like spreads, peanut butter, three kinds of jam, pickled herring, sliced cheeses, and some deli meat as well, so people can pack lunches if necessary. Lunch is usually food from the previous dinner, either in the same form or repurposed. For example, if we had sausage the night before, we’ll have some sort of ratatouille. Once one kind of food is out at lunch, chances are it is completely gone. At lunch and dinner, there have been a lot of potatoes; boiled, mashed, or cooked in some sort of hash. We have only had fish six times or so in the last two weeks, not as much as I was anticipating. We’ve had a lot of ground beef and chicken legs. I feel bad for the vegetarians, as there haven’t been many protein options for them. Zack, from Minnesota, and I commented on this when we actually saw tofu in the vegetarian line; he said his body had been craving beef due to the lack of protein.

On a completely different note, I did my laundry for the first time on Sunday evening. Laundry is free, a nice change from doing laundry at a laundromat. There are 5 washing machines and 4 dryers for all 300+ people living on campus. As such, people have sign up to do laundry, so that everyone gets a chance. At my designated laundry time, I realized that I accidentally purchased detergent booster pods instead of actual detergent pods from the U.S.; I felt stupid having incorrectly purchased something that was all in English. Victoria was kind enough to let me use some of her detergent as all the shops are closed on Sunday. I got my laundry done, which I’m sure my classmates appreciate.

In addition to the laundry room and the dining hall, there are multiple common areas. The lounge is the place to hang out and do group work as it has wireless internet. (Our rooms have one ethernet jack to share between two people.) There is a library off the lounge for quieter studying, and a music room for those who have an instrument they want to practice for the International Cultural Evening. Below the lounge is the game room that also appears to be a student bar during the school year. There’s pool, ping pong, darts and foosball available to play for free! In a large bathroom on the same floor is a piano… Yes, you read that correctly. There is a piano in a bathroom. In the other wing, there is a single TV room with about eight couches. So far, it’s mostly been used for watching the world cup, though I’m sure it’s also been put to other uses by people getting away from their roommates. Ahem. On the roof of the two wings is a balcony area that the Bachelor’s level students have taken over for heavy drinking. The grounds have a sand volleyball court and flat areas for playing soccer, and the roses here are absolutely gorgeous right now!

So that’s what Blindern Studenterhjem is like – at least during the summer. Here are the pictures of Blindern again.

Main Building West Wing

 

Norwegian Life: Experiencing EuroPride, Norwegian Hiking, and Folk Dancing

My weekend started on Friday night with the ISS party at the student center, Chateau Nuef. Surprisingly, it had a club-like area in the basement, and it was hopping! Unfortunately, I was a bit under the weather with a cold, so I didn’t enjoy myself as much as I would have. I left the party a bit before midnight. While walking back to Blindern, I saw two figures in the soccer field. Thinking they were up to no good, as it was 11:45 PM, I continued on until I noticed two other small figures chasing each other around and wrestling; it was two dogs! I, of course, went over, introduced myself, and played with the Dalmatian and Alaskan Husky while talking with their owners about their time in Oslo and what winter is like. The coldest it’s ever been is about -30 degrees Celsius, or about -22 degrees Farenheit, which after living in Minnesota, does not sound too bad, especially since the summers here are so pleasant! After an hour, when the dogs had tired each other out, we headed our separate ways.

The next morning, Betsy (Minneapolis), Loki (Los Angeles), and I went to EuroPride after grabbing a surprisingly good Chicago style pizza in Downtown Oslo. EuroPride is hosted by a different European city every year and is larger than the city’s usual annual celebration. There were many attendees from across Europe: Belgium, other Scandinavian countries, etc. Police officers led the parade to clear people off the streets and make a path wide enough for the floats; there were no barricades to hold people and other traffic back until the parade, which followed a 2 miles long route, reached us. The parade was fantastic and fabulous, despite the cloudy/misty weather. A sampling of my pictures from Pride are below!

EuroPride   Clearing the way for the parade

Had dancing men with rainbow umbrellas

Had dancing men with rainbow umbrellas

Fabulous Queen Fun SailorsDrumming Nurses? Rainbow Cops BelgiumQueens

On Sunday, we were taken hiking in Nodmarka, the main outdoor place for all of Oslo, both in the summer and winter. During the summer, it is used for hiking, while the trails are lit for cross-country skiing in winter. The t-bane (subway/light rail) has at least two lines that terminate at the head of some Nordmarka trails, so it is very conveniently located. After a 5 km (about 3 mile) hike to a place with food (some sort of cabin outpost – it has rooms people can stay in), Clare (UK), Ira (Ukraine) and I, along with some others, decided to go on a different path back than the main led group. We received instructions from the leaders for which path to start on, then headed off. We had no maps, one smart phone that we could occasionally use, and only our destination in mind. The trails were very confusing, as the signs we saw kept giving us weird distances. Sometimes we would walk for 20 minutes but only be told by a sign that we’d gone 0.5 km. I think we would switch trails by accident, following a ski path instead of a hiking path. We finally made it out of the forest, only to not know where exactly the t-bane station was, as we’d walked (purposefully) to a different line than the one on which we entered. After asking for instructions (it’s really nice that so many people are fluent in English…), we made it to the t-bane, and back to our studies in Blindern.

Field with Birches Lake in Nordmarka Lily Pads View of Oslo Lake in Nordmarka Made it out!

After dinner on Monday evening we had the chance to experience Norwegian folk dancing. I would say there were over 100 people, with four instructors and a fiddler. I’m sure we looked semi-idiotic to these instructors, as they have won national championships for folk dancing. I cannot tell you the names of the dances as I cannot recall them and it’s too Norwegian for me to spell. We had a blast! These dances reminded me of square dancing and reel dances, such as the Virginia reel – I guess that’s understandable as these are different kinds of American folk dances.

When I told my friend, Ane, who is from Trondheim, Norway, about my experiences and hiking in Nordmarka, she told me I’m being very Norwegian. I appreciate the International Summer School not only for the great course material and the chance to meet people from all over the world, but also for the opportunities to experiencing life in Norway and its culture.